Songkran (Thai New Year), which begins today, means different things to different people.
To many, including most of the people brave enough to visit to Thailand during the hottest month of the year, it’s the water-fight festival. In major cities like Bangkok and Chiang Mai, the streets turn into lively battlegrounds where people, armed with water guns, buckets, hoses, and anything that can hold water, engage in playful water fights by throwing water at each other. To just as many, it’s a silly, tourism-driven game that is far from being eco-friendly and takes the attention away from the true meaning of the festival.
To most Bangkokians, this is a long holiday where people get to spend time with their family and enjoy khao chae (rice in flower-scented ice water), a celebratory meal once served only within the royal and aristocratic families of Bangkok but, in the past decade or so, has become a seasonal special offered by many higher-end restaurants and hotels during the month of April.
Next time you find yourself in Bangkok during this time of year, especially if you want to explore something far beyond the standard Thai restaurant fare, seek out khao chae.
In the meantime, here are some links:
I’ve recently given an interview to Kat Thompson at the BBC about khao chae.
I’ve written quite extensively about khao chae, the making of flower-scented water, and how to make the meal my family’s way in my 2017 book, Bangkok.
Back in 2019, I chatted with Francis Lam of NPR’s The Splendid Table about my great-grandparents’ home in Bangkok and khao chae (audio).
Paid subscribers of The Epestle can also read about Songkran in Spicy Red-Roselle Jelly: Because we don’t always get what we want, OK, goddess? and Skillet Banana Curry with Cashews: A framework for countless variations.
Thank you for subscribing to The Epestle. Happy Songkran, everyone!